The Challenge of Real Bean to Bar Chocolate: A Story that Begins with a Farmer's Visit
1. Introduction
2. Why visit cacao plantations?
3. Visit to a Malaysian cacao farm
Our Challenge: NATUVIEW's Chocolate Making
5. Current status and issues in the chocolate industry
6. The challenge of growing cacao at home
7. Summary
1. Introduction
The true taste of chocolate depends on the quality of the cacao bean, the raw material. I decided to take on the challenge of making bean-to-bar chocolate because I wanted to deliver truly delicious and healthy chocolate that maximizes the natural flavor of cacao, rather than simply making chocolate.
As a first step, I embarked on a journey to actually visit cacao farms to learn how cacao is grown, fermented, and dried. In this article, I will discuss what I learned through this experience, the insights and lessons I gained from visiting cacao farms, and how this experience will be applied to my bean-to-bar chocolate making.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
2. why visit cacao farms?
Because cacao trees do not grow in Japan, there are limited opportunities to learn how cacao is actually cultivated and in what kind of environment it grows. Cacao is not just a luxury item; it is also attracting attention as a super food with high nutritional value.
What health benefits does cacao have? Here are some surprising and surprising benefits.
→ Learn more about the health benefits of cacao.
As a newcomer to the world of cacao, I decided to first visit a local farm to understand its fundamentals.
The purpose of this visit was to see and learn firsthand the environment in which cacao is cultivated, how it is grown, and the processing processes such as fermentation and drying. In chocolate making, the quality of the raw material, cacao, determines everything. For this reason, I thought it was essential to experience firsthand what the best cacao is before “making delicious chocolate.
When I actually visited the plantation, I found that the cacao plant is much more profound than I had imagined. There were many discoveries that could only be made by seeing with your eyes, touching with your hands, and smelling with your senses that could never be conveyed in books or other materials.
For example, the leaves of the cacao plant were thinner and more delicate than expected, and easily swayed in the breeze. And the sight of small flowers blooming directly from the trunk was so unique that it overturned my concept of plants. The importance of temperature, humidity, and time management during the fermentation and drying processes was also emphasized, and I realized how much time and effort goes into creating the flavor of cacao.
Through this experience, I became convinced that chocolate making should not be limited to mere processing techniques, but should start with an understanding of the true nature of the cacao plant. I will apply what I have learned to NATUVIEW's chocolate making and continue to take on the challenge of creating a single piece of chocolate with the utmost care and attention.
3. visit to a cacao farm in Malaysia
History and Environment
Lees Cocoa, which I visited, is located in Tanjung Sepat, Malaysia, and is the only remaining cocoa plantation in the region. It is relatively easy to access, being about an hour and a half drive from Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA). In the 1970s and 1980s, Tanjung Sepah was the center of cacao cultivation in Selangor, but many farmers have switched to other crops, and today Lees Cocoa is the only cacao farm in the area. Lees Cocoa is the only cacao farmer left. Today, however, many farmers have switched to other crops, and Lees Cocoa is the only cacao farmer in the region.
Commitment to and challenges of pesticide-free cultivation
The farm does not use any pesticides in its cacao cultivation. Although the farm is not certified, it is thoroughly committed to being pesticide-free. For example, they use a method of spraying food vinegar to repel insects, and they maintain an environment where even insecticides are not used. During our visit, the vinegar was sprayed on our bodies as well, so the smell of vinegar lingered with us throughout our walk around the farm, and my companion and I spent the rest of the time laughing about it. Although the vinegar may have been effective in repelling insects, it did not stop the onslaught of mosquitoes, and we ended up getting dozens of bites as a result. In the end, we found ourselves in a state of “the inspection team fighting the itch while surrounded by the smell of vinegar,” an experience that we had to laugh at.
Pesticide-free cultivation presents many challenges.
Susceptibility to pests and diseases
Food damage by rats and monkeys
Only about 20 pieces of cacao can be harvested in the end, even if 1,000 flowers bloom
Because of the cost and time required to obtain certification, some small farms do not obtain certification even if they are “practically pesticide-free.
Thus, growing cacao without pesticides is not easy. However, farmers are working hard every day to produce safe, high-quality cacao.
カカオ農園での学び
(1) Cacao varieties and taste differences
There are various varieties of cacao, each with different flavors and characteristics. In general, cacao varieties can be broadly classified into the following three categories
Forastero: The most widely produced variety in the world, it is disease-resistant and easy to grow, but its flavor is relatively monotonous and bitter.
Criollo: a rare variety with a fruity, delicate flavor, but susceptible to disease and difficult to grow.
Trinitario: A cross between Forastero and Criollo, it has a well-balanced flavor and is easy to grow.
(2) Fermentation and drying of cacao are decisive factors
The flavor of cacao varies greatly depending on the fermentation and drying processes. If fermentation does not proceed properly, it can result in a strong sour taste or astringent residue. On the other hand, properly fermented and dried cacao will have a fruity aroma and complex flavor.
The farm we visited uses a traditional fermentation method using wooden crates, and temperature control and fermentation time are adjusted for optimum conditions.
Drying is done in plastic greenhouses under the sun. Inside the greenhouses, the drying process proceeds quickly due to the high temperatures, and has the advantage of not being affected by weather conditions. However, care must be taken to avoid unevenness in the drying process, and the farmers manually mixed the rice four to five times a day to achieve uniform drying. This meticulous process is indispensable to obtain a better flavor of cacao.
(3) Sustainable cacao cultivation
Sustainability of cacao farms is directly related to environmental protection and improvement of farmers' livelihood. The farms we visited were practicing cultivation methods that do not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers and are considerate of the natural environment. However, growing without pesticides is not easy, and farmers must constantly face the risk of pests and diseases. In order to solve these problems, farmers continued to work hard every day.
(4) Manual cacao sorting
Cacao is harvested by hand, one by one, without the use of machines. It is difficult for machines to accurately determine the ripeness and quality of cacao, so skilled artisans select the most suitable cacao by looking at the color and shape. This meticulous process greatly affects the final taste of the chocolate.
In addition, even if cacao berries look similar, they vary in quality, and over-ripe and under-ripe berries must be properly sorted. Through this process, only truly high-quality cacao beans are used as raw materials for bean-to-bar chocolate.
(5) Taste changes due to fermentation
Fermentation of cacao is an important process that determines the quality of bean-to-bar chocolate. During the fermentation process, cacao beans undergo decomposition by microorganisms to form complex flavors. This process takes about 15 days, during which time the cacao flavor changes as follows
Bitterness - In the early stages of fermentation, cacao has a strong bitter taste.
Sourness - As fermentation progresses, lactic acid bacteria and yeast add sourness to the cacao.
Sweetness - Finally, the breakdown of sugar and the development of aroma compounds transforms cacao into a mellow, sweet flavor.
This three-layered taste transformation - bitter → sour → sweet - is one of the charms of real bean-to-bar chocolate. By carefully controlling the temperature and time of fermentation, it is possible to produce chocolate with a good balance of flavors.
(6) Direct Sourcing and Traceability
A key feature of genuine bean-to-bar chocolate is that it comes directly from the place of origin. Because “traceability” has been established to track which plantation the cacao was grown on, the producer is clear and the quality is guaranteed.
Unlike general mass-produced chocolate, bean-to-bar chocolate deals directly with farmers, which allows us to carefully select higher quality cacao beans and process them in optimal conditions. This system also allows farmers to trade at a fair price and supports sustainable cacao cultivation.
In addition, in order to make the most of the different flavors of cacao in each region, it is possible to make chocolates that reflect the characteristics of each region. For example, differences in soil and climate produce cacao with a strong fruity acidity and cacao with a nutty richness, each with its own unique flavor, which is one of the attractions of bean-to-bar chocolate.
Realizations on the Farm
Cacao leaf surprise: One of the things that surprised me while observing the cacao trees was how thin and floppy the cacao leaves were, almost like paper. While the leaves of most fruit trees are thick and solid in texture, the cacao leaves were much thinner than expected, and even fluttered and swayed when the wind blew. I wanted to learn more about how this unique characteristic affects the growing environment and moisture management of cacao.
Cacao tree growing environment: Cacao trees are sensitive to direct sunlight, so they were grown under the shade of planted palm and banana trees called “mother trees. Since cacao trees do not grow well under strong sunlight, these tall trees provide natural shade and create a suitable environment. When I saw this scene, I realized that cacao trees are not only planted but also grow while being supported by the surrounding environment. Palm trees and banana trees wrapped around the cacao trees as if to protect them, as if the mechanism of nature was in perfect balance.
Cacao flower surprise: One of the most surprising things about visiting the plantation was that cacao flowers bloom directly on the trunks. While most fruit trees have flowers at the ends of their branches, cacao flowers are small and bloom directly from the trunk or thick branches. When I first saw this unique sight, I felt very strange. It was like a star blooming on the trunk of a tree, a beautiful and mysterious sight.
Pollination challenges of cacao: Cacao flowers are very small and bloom for only one or two days, so the timing of pollination is extremely limited. In nature, certain small insects help with pollination, but their success rate is low and artificial pollination is sometimes necessary. However, artificial pollination is also very difficult and is a labor-intensive process that requires detailed work and proper timing. This difficulty in pollination is one of the factors that greatly affects the yield of cacao.
In addition, artificial pollination itself is a difficult task on a vast plantation. It is necessary to manually pollinate each tree one by one, which is labor intensive and time consuming. Moreover, even if pollination is successful, not all of the fruit will grow well. Many fruits may be affected by pests and diseases, or may be eaten by rats and monkeys.
The reality is that even if 1,000 flowers bloom, the number of cacao nuts that can eventually be harvested is reduced to only about 20. This is a major challenge in cacao production and illustrates the difficulty of producing high-quality cacao in a stable manner.
4. our challenge - NATUVIEW's chocolate making
Click here to learn more about NATUVIEW's commitment to making bean-to-bar chocolate and behind-the-scenes development.
See NATUVIEW's bean-to-bar chocolates
Visiting a cacao farm made us realize anew the importance of the cacao bean, which is the foundation of chocolate making. By learning about local cultivation methods and the fermentation and drying process, we hope to gain a deeper understanding of the characteristics of cacao and apply this knowledge to NATUVIEW's chocolate making.
Our goal is not just “delicious” chocolate, but chocolate that maximizes the power of the ingredients and values the nutritional value, flavor, and story behind it. To achieve this goal, we will take the following initiatives.
- Selection of better cacao beans
Carefully select high quality, flavorful cacao beans. In particular, we aim for sustainable trade by connecting directly with farmers who are committed to pesticide-free and natural cultivation.
- High cacao because of its simplicity
To maximize the natural flavor and nutritional value of cacao, we use the minimum amount of ingredients without unnecessary additives. Utilizing natural sweeteners instead of sugar, the company researches chocolate making with minimal impact on blood sugar levels.
- Delicious chocolate with low sugar content.
Ordinary chocolate contains a lot of sugar. However, we have sought to create a natural sweetness by utilizing natural sweeteners that are gentle on the blood sugar level, while still taking advantage of the natural flavor of cacao. We offer guilt-free chocolate that can be enjoyed by those on sugar restrictions or ketogenic diets.
Combining good taste with good health
Our chocolate is more than just low-sugar chocolate. They are rich and satisfying, while taking advantage of the polyphenols, magnesium, and other nutrients found in cacao. We aim to create chocolates that can be incorporated into the daily routine of those who follow a ketogenic diet or are health conscious.
- Optimization of fermentation and drying processes for each region of production
Since the climate and soil of each cacao producing region differs, it is necessary to optimize the fermentation and drying process for each environment, rather than using a uniform processing method. The flavor of cacao varies greatly depending on the temperature and time of fermentation and the drying process. In order to make the most of the characteristics of each region, we repeatedly conduct prototypes under different fermentation conditions to find the method that best brings out the individuality of the cacao. This requires a deep understanding of the cacao production process and an optimal approach to processing, rather than simply “making chocolate. Through repeated prototyping and improvement, we aim to achieve the best taste and quality and deliver exceptional chocolate to our customers.
- Supporting sustainable cacao cultivation
We support sustainable cacao cultivation by trading directly with cacao farmers and purchasing their products at fair prices. We hope to contribute to a better future while incorporating the concept of fair trade and promoting environmentally friendly agriculture.
- Disseminating information to consumersTo disseminate the nutritional value of cacao and the efforts being made on the farm, and to promote its value as a healthy food rather than just a sweet.
This challenge has just begun, but we will continue to evolve under the theme of “both good taste and good health,” and we hope that NATUVIEW chocolates will become a part of your new lifestyle.
5. current status and issues in the chocolate industry
Chocolate is popular in Malaysia, but only a minority of people still think about its nutritional value. For many people, chocolate is a luxury item, with little awareness that it is a health food. Therefore, bean-to-bar chocolates, which require high raw materials and a lot of time and effort, are expensive and difficult to be accepted in the market.
On the other hand, an increasing number of farmers like Lees Cocoa are producing safe cacao without pesticides and promoting its high nutritional value. Working with these farmers and communicating the value of chocolate will be an important mission for the future.
In Japan, the market for bean-to-bar chocolate is expanding, but the number of such products is still small and the awareness of consumers in general is low. In particular, understanding of the nutritional value of cacao is not widespread, and many people consider chocolate merely a luxury item. Therefore, it is necessary to properly communicate the value of chocolate with its high health benefits.
To solve this issue, NATUVIEW is committed to the development of high quality, high cacao, and delicious real chocolate to deliver to consumers. Furthermore, by offering chocolates made with high quality cacao, we will provide more opportunities for consumers to actually experience the difference. Several chocolate companies in Malaysia are also actively developing educational programs for consumers and students, and are working to communicate the importance of the nutritional value of cacao and deepen understanding of environmental issues through factory tours. Taking a cue from these efforts, we too will convey the “true value of cacao. Now that we know the passion and efforts of the people on the farms, we believe it is our mission to deliver their thoughts and feelings, and we would be happy if, by picking up NATUVIEW's bean-to-bar chocolates, consumers learn about the background of cacao and their bite becomes a moment of connection with the producers.
We will continue to pursue better chocolate making through trial and error.
6. the challenge of growing cacao at home
I learned a lot about cacao cultivation through my visits to the farms, but in my desire to understand it more deeply, I purchased three types of cacao seedlings (Forastero, Criollo, and Trinitario) and began growing them at home.
I place the saplings in my living room to avoid the winter cold and maintain a warm environment. However, the room tends to be dry and it is difficult to maintain proper humidity, so we utilize a humidifier and spray mist on the leaves.
By observing the growth of cacao, we hope to gain a deeper understanding of its characteristics and apply this knowledge to future product development.
Click here to see NATUVIEW's chocolates that bring out the best of cacao
See NATUVIEW's chocolates
7. summary
Lees Cocoa's store and factory
Through this visit, we were reminded of the many labor-intensive steps involved in the cultivation of cacao. Cultivation without pesticides is a battle against pests and diseases, and finally high-quality cacao beans are produced through appropriate fermentation and drying processes.
I strongly felt that understanding the background of such cultivation is essential to understanding the important factors that determine the flavor and quality of cacao. It is not enough to simply grow cacao beans without pesticides. Detailed management is required in accordance with the environment and climate, and furthermore, the adjustment of temperature and time during the fermentation and drying processes greatly affects the flavor. Therefore, the knowledge and experience of the producers is of utmost importance, and I realized that in order for us to produce high quality chocolate, it is essential to have a deep understanding of these processes and to work with the farmers to find the best methods.
Throughout this trip, what impressed me most was the passion and hard work of the farmers. They are constantly struggling with the environment and climate change, yet they continue to go through trial and error in order to produce the best cacao. Each piece of cacao is filled with their wisdom and love, and I strongly felt that bean-to-bar chocolate is not just “good chocolate” but something to be savored along with the story behind it.
After this visit, I have renewed my determination to “make real bean-to-bar chocolate. To maximize the power of cacao and create healthy and delicious chocolate. This is my mission, and I have made up my mind to use this experience to create even more refined chocolate.
And this challenge has only just begun. I want to learn more about the depth of cacao and convey its appeal to as many people as possible. This inspection tour was not a goal, but a starting point for further challenges.
In my next article, I will show you how I will reflect the knowledge I gained through this visit to chocolate making. Please look forward to it!
Learn more about NATUVIEW's chocolate making process
See NATUVIEW's bean-to-bar chocolates